Poilâne loaf

I was in London at the weekend and, since I was meeting a friend in South Kensington, I  made a detour via the Poilâne bakery in Belgravia. Poilâne is one of the most famous bakeries in the world and its enviable reputation is founded not upon that most iconic of breads, the baguette, but on the rustic sourdough miche. Started by Pierre Poilâne in 1932 in Paris, the business was taken over by Pierre’s son Lionel in the 1970s. Lionel Poilâne not only expanded the business, he transformed it into a global brand, and the signature sourdough loaf – once considered a peasant staple – became sought-after by the rich and famous.

The Poilâne country loaf is not a bread for the faint-hearted.  At around 2kg in weight and 30cm in diameter, it has a thick crust and a chewy crumb with an intense flavour derived from the sourdough leaven and the combination of wheat and rye flours used to make it. This is a bread that would partner well with strong cheeses and charcuterie; it would be perfect with oysters or as a base for Scandinavian-style open sandwiches.

I bought a half-loaf, presented here by daughter number one. Each loaf is decorated with a ‘P’ skilfully cut into the dough before it is loaded into the wood-fired ovens that the bakery uses; I’m afraid I couldn’t justify buying a whole loaf to show it off, but you get the idea.

On Sunday we visited the West Norwood Feast, which is held on the first weekend of every month. Unfortunately the Olympic summer lived up to expectations and the rain came down in sheets. Nonetheless, we managed to sample sheeps-milk cheese, gourmet sausage rolls, fresh ground coffee and these tiny cakes, called ‘dainties’.

The next Feast is September 2nd: if you live in south London you should get over there. And pack a raincoat.